How a Custom Qipao or Cheongsam Is Made

Pattern Drafting: Made to Your Body, Not a Size

We don’t alter existing patterns. We draft new ones for every body — because every client is unique.

From shoulder slope to armhole depth, we map your form onto paper and design the silhouette to flatter how you stand, walk, and move. This is where fit begins. A true custom Qipao never relies on off-the-rack sizes.

Hand-Cutting & Fabric Sizing

Once your pattern is finalized, we hand-cut the silk — but not before preparing it properly.

Because silk is soft and fluid, we first apply a thin layer of hand-painted sizing to the lining side. This traditional process gently stiffens the fabric, helping it hold its shape during cutting, embroidery, and final wear.

Each piece is then cut precisely by hand, aligning with the natural grain of the silk to ensure smooth movement and a flattering drape.

This step is invisible to the eye — but it’s one of the most important for long-term structure and luxury finish.

Embroidery Planning: Art that Moves with You

Before we stitch a single thread, we plan where every dragon tail or peony bloom will fall. Why? Because embroidery shouldn’t just look good on a flat surface — it should move beautifully on you.

Whether you choose Shu embroidery (delicate shading) or Panjin goldwork (raised, symbolic), we design it based on your posture and occasion.

Transferring the Embroidery Design

Once the embroidery layout is finalized on paper, we carefully hand-transfer the motifs onto the silk — one section at a time.

Using traditional tracing tools, chalk, or heat-transfer outlines, our artists map each phoenix wing, koi tail, or peony petal in alignment with your body’s curves and movement. This ensures that the embroidery doesn’t just sit on the fabric — it becomes part of the silhouette.

This step requires patience and precision. Any mistake here cannot be undone.

Traditional Qipao Construction

A JINZA Qipao is sewn using time-honored techniques:

• The collar (Li Ling) is padded and sculpted, not folded
• Pankou knots are handmade and hand-placed
• Side seams are curved to follow the body, with hand-finished slits
• Zippers are hidden or replaced with plackets for a seamless look
  

These are details that machines can’t replicate.

Finishing touches & final fitting

The final steps are the quietest — but most important.

We adjust the neckline to sit cleanly without pulling. We hand-finish hems, reinforce slits, and line each dress with silk bias for strength. If desired, we embroider your initials, wedding date, or family symbol — something no one else will see but you.

This is how your Qipao becomes a memory you can wear.